|Area||Haines (Southeast shoulder of Mt Ripinski)|
|Difficulty/Seriousness||5.7 – 5.10 * (?)|
|Approach time||30-45 min.|
|Descent time||30-45 min.|
|When to climb||May-October|
|Aspect||South – Southwest|
|Gear||Sport Rack for sport climbs. Alpine Rack for trad climbs.|
|Topo||View/Download the topo for the Haines Crag|
Sport & Trad rock climbing within walking distance of Haines, Alaska… go get it!
Local legend John Svenson put up the first known ascent at the Haines Crag back in 1969. ’Eagle’s Nest’ is a loose trad test piece, that probably has not seen a second ascent. The rest of the 20th century didn’t bring much action. Then in 2008 our buddy Eli Fierer put up the first bolted multi-pitch route; Wild Currant Overhang (5.9)
Since then there have been a handful of new routes added including 4 sets of top-rope anchors with lot’s of potential for more.
Getting There: (1/2 hr hike)
The Haines Crag is located below the Radio Tower at the top of the ‘RaceTrail’. Take Young Rd. up to where it turns to gravel, there is a house on the left, the trail is on the left before the second house (unmarked). The trail takes you up to an obvious high point and then levels out before one final steep bit to the top of the cliff. One at the top of the obvious largest cliff (about 1/2 hr), continue until the trail veers right, back into the woods, there is a pile of sticks to keep people from going left to the old trail which skirted the cliff top. This turn is 10 meters from the top of ‘Raven’s Arete’ and ‘Ptarmigan Face’.
[box type="alert"]***Important,- All of the routes at the Haines Crag are accessed by rappelling from the top of the cliff. Most of them start from half-way up the face, as the lower face is very loose. This means that you must be able to get back to the top; one way or the other. It is always smart to climb with a cordalette and a pair of prussiks- know how to ascend the line. Climb within your ability.[/box]
a single rope rappell (50m) from bottom anchors will reach the talus field below. This is not the best option because the rock below the routes is very loose. Also, the hike out from the talus fields is a heinous bushwack. Use caution.
Cellphones work great from the Haines Crag… safety first.